Today: 66 Miles – Avg Speed: 10.2MPH - Top Speed: 41.2MPH
Total: 4,028.10 Miles
It was bloody freezing this morning. I couldn’t believe it. I diligently arose at 6:15 in order to beat the heat, but the temperature suggested I had beaten it by approximately six months, two seasons and an excursion to a barely populated continent. Ok, it wasn’t Antarctic cold, but I did have to wear a jumper over my goose-pimpled specked forearms and at one stage I could see warm breath filling my immediate field of vision. The nerve. I’m not complaining, mind you. I knew that the morning would be a long 18-mile stretch climb of 4,000 feet so a little frigidity in the air was a welcome boost, as well as an unexpected reminder of the majority of dating experiences I’ve had.
On top of these clouds and the cool air I was once again in the company of a forest. A real green one, at that. How I had gone from yesterdays moonscape to these lush, wet hills was a perplexing question, but as I’ve said with this region before: expect nothing. It’ll always surprise you anyway, so there’s little point in wasting valuable brain energy on internal conjecture.
I loved the climb this morning. The fresh misty air and abundance of rich foliage awoke a real love of nature inside of me. As wonderfully impressive as the solid, red rock structures have been thus far, they don’t inspire life quite as much as a creek next to a fallen tree.
After a few frustrating false summits I made my way on the 10 mile descent through Dixie Forest to the town of Boulder with a whopping population of 279. It was a damn sight colder on the way down, too. The summit was 9,800 feet and as I began to chip away at the altitude with the entitled impatience of a teenager sending a text message the rain began to fall, the winds howl and my spine shiver. It was the coldest I had been since New Hampshire two months ago and I was eager to stop for breakfast and warm up.
Well, after an unexpectedly delicious, yet expensive post-climb feed I carried on with the final 26 miles of the day towards Escalante. As I pulled away from Boulder I began the short ascent to a hidden curve on a familiar mesa and entered a road known as The Hogback. The landscape had changed from green forests to rock littered desert in just three miles, but what greeted me next had me shaken my head with delight again*. The hogback was a 12-mile stretch flanking a canyon to the right and mesas to the left, a lengthy asphalt spine offering unique views of this inspiring dirty sandstone canyon.
After this smooth and thrillingly long downhill my legs were made to work again as there were still some steep climbs over 7 miles through the Escalante Staircase, but again, I was giddy with joy. I actually think I lost it for a moment as when my legs were really struggling up one of the switchbacks I began laughing. I actually enjoyed this struggle. It was definitely one of the best days on the bike of the entire trip. It was as if I were in two worlds today.
*I know, unlike earlier in the trip, I’ve been waxing lyrical for the past week or so on what treats I’ve had the fortune to see, smell and be part of. I’d like to assure you that this isn’t some purposeful change of voice or some kind of fresh overly optimistic outlook instilled by shaman or epiphany, it is just that, quite simply, this entire region is the most impressive place I have ever visited in my life. I’m sure I’ll find some more quirky church signs and idiosyncratic locals before too long, though. So don’t panic.
Total: 4,028.10 Miles
It was bloody freezing this morning. I couldn’t believe it. I diligently arose at 6:15 in order to beat the heat, but the temperature suggested I had beaten it by approximately six months, two seasons and an excursion to a barely populated continent. Ok, it wasn’t Antarctic cold, but I did have to wear a jumper over my goose-pimpled specked forearms and at one stage I could see warm breath filling my immediate field of vision. The nerve. I’m not complaining, mind you. I knew that the morning would be a long 18-mile stretch climb of 4,000 feet so a little frigidity in the air was a welcome boost, as well as an unexpected reminder of the majority of dating experiences I’ve had.
On top of these clouds and the cool air I was once again in the company of a forest. A real green one, at that. How I had gone from yesterdays moonscape to these lush, wet hills was a perplexing question, but as I’ve said with this region before: expect nothing. It’ll always surprise you anyway, so there’s little point in wasting valuable brain energy on internal conjecture.
I loved the climb this morning. The fresh misty air and abundance of rich foliage awoke a real love of nature inside of me. As wonderfully impressive as the solid, red rock structures have been thus far, they don’t inspire life quite as much as a creek next to a fallen tree.
After a few frustrating false summits I made my way on the 10 mile descent through Dixie Forest to the town of Boulder with a whopping population of 279. It was a damn sight colder on the way down, too. The summit was 9,800 feet and as I began to chip away at the altitude with the entitled impatience of a teenager sending a text message the rain began to fall, the winds howl and my spine shiver. It was the coldest I had been since New Hampshire two months ago and I was eager to stop for breakfast and warm up.
Well, after an unexpectedly delicious, yet expensive post-climb feed I carried on with the final 26 miles of the day towards Escalante. As I pulled away from Boulder I began the short ascent to a hidden curve on a familiar mesa and entered a road known as The Hogback. The landscape had changed from green forests to rock littered desert in just three miles, but what greeted me next had me shaken my head with delight again*. The hogback was a 12-mile stretch flanking a canyon to the right and mesas to the left, a lengthy asphalt spine offering unique views of this inspiring dirty sandstone canyon.
After this smooth and thrillingly long downhill my legs were made to work again as there were still some steep climbs over 7 miles through the Escalante Staircase, but again, I was giddy with joy. I actually think I lost it for a moment as when my legs were really struggling up one of the switchbacks I began laughing. I actually enjoyed this struggle. It was definitely one of the best days on the bike of the entire trip. It was as if I were in two worlds today.
*I know, unlike earlier in the trip, I’ve been waxing lyrical for the past week or so on what treats I’ve had the fortune to see, smell and be part of. I’d like to assure you that this isn’t some purposeful change of voice or some kind of fresh overly optimistic outlook instilled by shaman or epiphany, it is just that, quite simply, this entire region is the most impressive place I have ever visited in my life. I’m sure I’ll find some more quirky church signs and idiosyncratic locals before too long, though. So don’t panic.
My favourite sign.
Atop The Hogback
The canyon itself...
One more. Just in case you missed it.
Home for the night.
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